The last few days have held some fun and interesting climbing for me. On Thanksgiving day, Jason, Ben and I went to Muir Valley and warmed up on Preemptive Strike (6b) and Earthsurfer (7a). I sent Earthsurfer second go, it's a interesting climb with fun moves and two hard cruxes, a bulge with a shallow crack that you can suss a finger lock off then make a move to shallow sloping dish, and then hit some jugs. After you gain a breather you can being to pull the second crux, moving moving over another bulge, on small crimpers, make a hard clip and then keep it together on the interesting slab above, palming and making "trust the rubber" moves. It tops out at 100 feet and there is a great view of the Valley, this view alone makes this climb worth doing. After that we went to Midnight Surf and gave Cell Block Six (7b+)some attention and Ben gave Tapeworm (7c)a good burn.

Today, Chase came and woke me up and we headed out to the gorge again. I haven't climbed with Chase for quite some time, and was happy to have some time at the rocks with him. We decided that we were going to go to Foxfire (5.7 R) at Eaglepoint Butress Instead of doing the first pitch on Foxfire, we opted to do Day Dreaming (5.9+). I got the first lead. I headed up the awkward lay back, small hand, and finger crack. Like most "Old School" + rated climbs, it was probably closer to a mid 10 than a 9. I belayed Chase up and we made the traverse across a rat shit covered ledge and built a new anchor on a tree. He led the next pitch, or the actual second pitch of Foxfire, this was the first R rated pitch, it finished on a scary traverse to the the next belay station. I was then on lead, and jumped on the 3rd pitch, again a 5.7 R pitch. I worked up through marginal placments to a roof where I moved onto the face to gain the 3rd belay station. I built an anchor on a tree that would not hold more than a small fall if we were lucky. Chase didn't fall (thank god) and we climbed the last 4o feet of awesome exposer. This is a great route for those who want an adventure. The R rating on all the upper pitches make it spicy!

Paradise Lost (8a)

Overdue Updates

So its been a few weekends without an update but that's because I haven't really been taking many pictures and like to update with pictures and words. Plus, I've been feeling kind of lazy in respect to the blog. However...

Bouldering
Triple Crown, HP40
Had a blast with Andrew G, Tim Black, and Johnny Slice. No one turned in scorecards but that didn't matter! What did matter were the almost sends, boulder hopping expeditions, and bourbon-induced teabagging and shenanigans! Tim and John almost sent Mullentino (V7), and Andrew DID send Green Lantern Low (V8), Skywalker (V8/9), and Consumption (V8). "eh, Good Work.."

Trad
The Learning Curve (5.12a)
Chase and I went to Eastern Skybridge a few weeks ago to try this gem of a line. Only 35 ft long, it amounts to a marginally protectable highball boulder problem that feels maybe V6. The crux is at the very top and is protected by a shallow #000 Black Diamond C3. We chose to suss it out on top rope and I feel confident enough to make a lead attempt next time!

Stucco Nu (5.11+)
Andrew led this adventuresome trad route this past Saturday and entertained all bystanders with an epic full body shake at the very top of the dihedral. The cruxy run to the chains eventually spit him out and left him with a joyous 30ft. whip onto a #2 stopper! He finished the route and I top-roped it. It climbs fantastically and I am planning on going for the lead send next weekend.

Snotrocket (5.12+)
AMAZING ROUTE!!! ONE OF THE BEST CLIMBS EVER! VERY HARD, VERY LONG, WITH AMAZING MOVEMENT! Andrew and I both TR'd it, Andrew plans to be going for the lead send soon, Good Luck!

Goodstone (5.11a)
This thin splitter fingercrack gave me my first trad fall! (11/15/09) 20ft on a #2 Metolius TCU

Sport

So much sport climbing to mention, but I'll stick to what I'm currently siked on. Andrew and I have winter proj's at the Gallery and Purgatory. Mine at least are perhaps way harder than I can pull, but I'm going to put the work in and see if I can do them!

Me - Paradise Lost (8a), Zen and the Art of Masturbation (7c+)
Andrew - The Shocker (8c), Lucifer (8c+)

Off Width

Wide cracks offer a whole new set of challenges to climbing. Finger strength and endurance are suddenly no help, your entire body comes into play. Last weekend, the defining climbing moments came for me on my attempt at "Muscle Shoals" (5.8+) at Muscle Beach, my first off width. While I didn't send, this climb tested me physically and mentally. This crack was full on off width from start to finish. I racked up with the biggest cams I have ever used. I had 1 #6 BD C4, 1 #5 BD Camalot (about a 5.5 in C4 range), 1 #5, and a #4.5 and #4. I wedged myself into the crack and started to inch and grunt my way up. At about 8 feet I found a stance, my chest and back were wedged against the wall, and I worked a knee bar and a heel toe cam. This allowed both hands to be free. I reached down and uncliped the 5.5, reached over my head with my other hand and passed the cam in, then I placed it above my head. Inched up again until it was at my waist. and moved it again. Then the crack got wider, I left the cam behind, and inched inside the crack ENTIRELY! I was able to get the 4.5 all the way back and exteneded it with a huge runner. After that I was able to stand up and scoot the #6 above my head into what I found to be the crux. finally I found a face hold, and was able to top out. I had just climbed a 50 foot crack with 3 pieces. I was battered and bloody from head to toe and sore for three days after. To do this crack safely two number 6's, and two number 5s are essential, I would like to have three 6's if I do it again.

October 23-25

This weekend started with some shabby weather, which only got better as the days progressed. Friday, Allen, Katie and I headed out and made our way to Roadside. Allen made his way up the soaking wet flake of "The Return of Chris Snyder"(5.11d) before deciding bailing was the best answer. We then headed back to the 5.10 wall, where I made two close burns on "Stay the Hand" (5.12a) one fall each time. On Saturday we (Allen, Tyler and I) headed to Muir Valley, leaving the girls to fend for themselves. We started our day by warming up at the "Bone yard" on "Captain Blondie Sinks the Ship" (5.11a/b), and then headed to the AMAZING "Midnight Surf" wall. There Allen worked "Tapeworm" (5.12d), I successfully teched my way through the boulder problem on "Iniquity" (5.12b) and got my redpoint. Tyler made quick work of "Cell Block Six) (5.12c) sending second go! Katie Scatena and I then went to the "Sanctuary" where we worked "Immaculate Deception" (5.12a) me falling one clip away from my onsight. Katie made good progress and her first 5.12 send is not far away!

Day two broke Sunny and Cold, we headed to "Drive By" where we began to climb. Katie Scatena made quick work of "Whipstocking" (5.11a) and "Yadda Yadda Yadda" (5.11b) which she quickly repointed hanging draws. Chase and Allen worked a hard 5.12d, while Katie Erickson and I palmed slopers and held pinches on "Check Your Grip" (5.12a) I managed to get it clean on my third go of the day. Chase and Tyler spent the day working "Beer Belly" (5.13a) while John worked towards the send on "Dirty Smelly Hippie" (5.13b), which I decided to get on at the end of the day. All in all it was a great weekend, with some amazing climbing!

Triple Crown Hounds Ears

Our first bouldering trip of the year was a weekend excursion to visit the first triple crown event of the year at the private Hound Ears Club in Boone, NC! Though the weather looked iffy the whole preceding week, all 250+ competitors lucked out with a beautiful 65 degree bluebird day for bouldering

Saturday broke bright, cold, and dewy, with free breakfast from five-ten and the loading of pads and groggy climbers onto trucks and into buses. The anticipation quickly rose to a pre-Christmas fervor as the hoards of climbers ascended the gravel mountain road to where Evolv, Five Ten, La Sportiva, and Scarpa were handing out demo models of their newest kicks. Finally, after some parting rules and wisdom, we were dismissed to shred our tips on the razor sharp crimps of Hounds Ears.

Tim and I got the day started with quick onsite/flashes of Woody's v3 (v5), and proceeded to the mushroom boulder for a cool traverse called Abracadaver (v4), and for Tim to come close to sticking the wicked swing of Mushroom Roof (v6). We then split up for a few hours to negotiate the crowded rocks solo. Teeterpoint (v6), and Capt Crunch (v4) were next for me. I was able to send the highball Capt Crunch, but Teeterpoint allowed me progress and no send, along with stealing several layers of skin.

As the day wound down and the few climbers with skin and hopes of victory rushed about attempted to fill their scorecards, cries of effort turned to curses of pain and bloody tips until the final horn sounded to bus back to the campground.

The party lasted well into the night for most, treated to an, er, entertaining? music experience before the awards ceremony, and the dispersing of much swag and raffle prizes.


Recommended Problems:

Abracadaver v4
The Pocket Problem v4
Captain Crunch v4
2,000 v4
The Mad Splatter v5
They Call Me Nobody v6
Crystallized v1
The Edge v0

Brian Voges, who placed 2nd in Men's Open, got the first ascent of an outstanding Hounds Ears project that links The Crusher (v10) into Flash or Trash (v5) and dubbed it Half Price Porno (v11/12).

Dreary Saturday

Last Saturday, after an adventurous start to my weekend which started with me being kicked awake by Miss Katie E at 3am, we met young Dru at 9am. He was itching to get out to the Darkside to climb, he and I headed out with his father and planned to meet the girls there later. It rained the entire way, fortunately Darkside is so steep that even the tops of climbs stay dry. Dru kicked off the day by climbing the "ramp of death" to get to the start of "Shanghai" (12d) he quickly worked out the moves going bolt, making it the hardest climb he's done all the moves on. After that I got a rope stick clipped to my project, "The Force", Then the ladies showed up. As I began to work the bottom moves of "The Force" again, Katie E. jumped on "Tuskan Raider" (12d) (pictured) and made great progress! I managed to stick the crux move on "The Force" on lead finally, making me hopeful that climbing in decent conditions and feeling 100%, I'll connect the bottom difficulty section in the least! Later in the day Sarah and Lindsay both gave good burns on "Mama Benson" (12a) Dru also gave Tuskan a burn, but then had to go home. To finish our day Katie got on Tuskan and got all the moves! I got on it too and figured out the crux moves, it's a super cool route, and has a sit down rest just after the crux! It was a super day full of climbing and various shenanigans!