Friday, November 27, 2009

The last few days have held some fun and interesting climbing for me. On Thanksgiving day, Jason, Ben and I went to Muir Valley and warmed up on Preemptive Strike (6b) and Earthsurfer (7a). I sent Earthsurfer second go, it's a interesting climb with fun moves and two hard cruxes, a bulge with a shallow crack that you can suss a finger lock off then make a move to shallow sloping dish, and then hit some jugs. After you gain a breather you can being to pull the second crux, moving moving over another bulge, on small crimpers, make a hard clip and then keep it together on the interesting slab above, palming and making "trust the rubber" moves. It tops out at 100 feet and there is a great view of the Valley, this view alone makes this climb worth doing. After that we went to Midnight Surf and gave Cell Block Six (7b+)some attention and Ben gave Tapeworm (7c)a good burn.

Today, Chase came and woke me up and we headed out to the gorge again. I haven't climbed with Chase for quite some time, and was happy to have some time at the rocks with him. We decided that we were going to go to Foxfire (5.7 R) at Eaglepoint Butress Instead of doing the first pitch on Foxfire, we opted to do Day Dreaming (5.9+). I got the first lead. I headed up the awkward lay back, small hand, and finger crack. Like most "Old School" + rated climbs, it was probably closer to a mid 10 than a 9. I belayed Chase up and we made the traverse across a rat shit covered ledge and built a new anchor on a tree. He led the next pitch, or the actual second pitch of Foxfire, this was the first R rated pitch, it finished on a scary traverse to the the next belay station. I was then on lead, and jumped on the 3rd pitch, again a 5.7 R pitch. I worked up through marginal placments to a roof where I moved onto the face to gain the 3rd belay station. I built an anchor on a tree that would not hold more than a small fall if we were lucky. Chase didn't fall (thank god) and we climbed the last 4o feet of awesome exposer. This is a great route for those who want an adventure. The R rating on all the upper pitches make it spicy!

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