Rockcastle Bouldering

The directions and topo for existing problems were recently released for a new bouldering spot in Central Kentucky called Rockcastle. Yesterday Sam and I made the hour and 45 minute journey out there to check it out!

The weather was perfect and we had equal proportions of exploring, climbing, and beer to make for an awesome day.
Impressions of Rockcastle:
Rock Quality - some as good as 4/5 but lots of really chossy flake systems on the roofs. There is plenty of good rock waiting to be cleaned and climbed, and almost all of it tops out. For some reason most of the development has been concentrated on roofs, and the aformentioned loose flakes...

Potential - the best and most expansive bouldering I've seen in Kentucky. Could continue to grow and be a quality playground for Kentucky boulderers, but I cant imagine it becoming a "destination".

Problems:

Main Side

Me on "Waiting Room", V4
Quick send but super fun and committing throw to the top!



Sam battling "Red Line", V3, on Boulder 1
Quality rock with fun moves, starts WAY low under the roof.

Other Side

"Gopher It", V4 FA *****

Stone Fort/LRC Update

December 5/6 Stone Fort LRC

Andrew, Hannah, Tim, and I woke up Saturday morning to find the parking field and my tent covered in about 1-2 inches of wet Tennessee snow! We quickly entered the newly opened Urban Rocks climbing gym (which served as Triple Crown headquarters) to find that the competition had been postponed to the following day, and that competitors could boulder at Urban Rocks for half price until the Dyno Comp and party that evening.


We decided some coffee was in order so we headed into downtown Chattanooga for some Chatty's coffee and some pumpkin bread. Then back to Urban Rocks for some awesome indoor top out bouldering (that gym has it goin on!).

The afternoon was spend back in Chattytown running around like hooligans with some buildering and parkour to boot! Then to a local brewery for some fresh beer and some tasty eats!


The night was wasted away watching the dyno comp then to bed early for the comp the next day.

Similar to Horse Pens, no one in our group turned in scorecards at the end of the day. We had a blast though! Some highlights were barefoot climbing, a sweet boulder of highballs, and Andrew nearly sending (and paying the price for not) a V10 called King James.

Stone Fort (LRC), TN this weekend!

Andrew, Hannah, Tim, Tanya, Chris, and I are heading down for the final leg of the Triple Crown of Bouldering this weekend, thought I'd post a video of Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges sampling some of the excellent problems LRC has to offer.

Advanced Circuit - Little Rock City, Tn from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Purgatory

Tyler, Tim, Andrew, and I all are siked on routes at Purgatory. I am working "the castle has fallen", Andrew is getting close on "lucifer", and Tyler and Tim are putting in ever-so-close redpoint burns on "paradise lost"

Movies

Its a gorgeous crag of minimally featured grey rock and hosts 4 of the best and most difficult climbs at the Red all right next to each other. Coming around the corner to see the early morning sunlight illuminating these classics is a sight to behold.