Off Width

Wide cracks offer a whole new set of challenges to climbing. Finger strength and endurance are suddenly no help, your entire body comes into play. Last weekend, the defining climbing moments came for me on my attempt at "Muscle Shoals" (5.8+) at Muscle Beach, my first off width. While I didn't send, this climb tested me physically and mentally. This crack was full on off width from start to finish. I racked up with the biggest cams I have ever used. I had 1 #6 BD C4, 1 #5 BD Camalot (about a 5.5 in C4 range), 1 #5, and a #4.5 and #4. I wedged myself into the crack and started to inch and grunt my way up. At about 8 feet I found a stance, my chest and back were wedged against the wall, and I worked a knee bar and a heel toe cam. This allowed both hands to be free. I reached down and uncliped the 5.5, reached over my head with my other hand and passed the cam in, then I placed it above my head. Inched up again until it was at my waist. and moved it again. Then the crack got wider, I left the cam behind, and inched inside the crack ENTIRELY! I was able to get the 4.5 all the way back and exteneded it with a huge runner. After that I was able to stand up and scoot the #6 above my head into what I found to be the crux. finally I found a face hold, and was able to top out. I had just climbed a 50 foot crack with 3 pieces. I was battered and bloody from head to toe and sore for three days after. To do this crack safely two number 6's, and two number 5s are essential, I would like to have three 6's if I do it again.