This may seem like an obvious statement, but scaling large rock faces can pose significant health risks to its participants. Somehow, though, this seems to be a point of fact lost on the mass migration of gym rats from plastic to rock. Yes, you can climb v8 problems in your gym, but can you thread a rope through a gri-gri correctly? Can you keep your hand on the brake rope? Can you clean a route then rappel from the anchors? When it comes down to it, there is no substitute for experience outside climbing, but hubris has prevented the new generation of climbers from asking the right questions, and learning from the dirty old veterans. There are reasons they were able to survive the climbing lifestyle.
Monday, May 3, 2010
Climbing Is Dangerous
This may seem like an obvious statement, but scaling large rock faces can pose significant health risks to its participants. Somehow, though, this seems to be a point of fact lost on the mass migration of gym rats from plastic to rock. Yes, you can climb v8 problems in your gym, but can you thread a rope through a gri-gri correctly? Can you keep your hand on the brake rope? Can you clean a route then rappel from the anchors? When it comes down to it, there is no substitute for experience outside climbing, but hubris has prevented the new generation of climbers from asking the right questions, and learning from the dirty old veterans. There are reasons they were able to survive the climbing lifestyle.
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Sunday, February 21, 2010
February Climbing


Alaska isn't known for it's winter rock climbing, but none the less, with current temps in the high 30's to mid 40's, we decided a climbing trip was in order! We drove about an hour and 45 mins north of Anchorage to Puritan Wall. This wall is close to the road which makes a snowy approach. After a failed attempt at driving off road to a camping spot, which quickly turned into a truck rescue, as we dug out of a snow bank, we got up to the wall. we set up a one bolt belay about 20 feet off the deck, we didn't get climbing until it was dark. Kyle quickly (and intentionally) kicked a large rock of the ledge, as it was threatening anyone on the ground. By headlamp, Kyle led a 5.10a and quickly got off route, finishing on the chains for a 12a next door. he clipped three bolts on the 60 foot route. Kelsey began rope soloing aid climbing the "11b" to our left. about half way up, he discovered that Kyle's Rock had core shot his rope, meaning he had been essentially free solo aid climbing. I quickly polled his rope through and reanchored it.
After we got our fill in, and temps started to drop, we rapped to the ground, and set up camp. we huddled around a fire to keep warm and ate food, and drank some Moose's Tooth brew. Then it was bed time. Over the night, temps dropped to 0 to -5 degrees. In my -20 sleeping bag, I remained toasty.
Day two broke sunny and cold. By 10:30 or 11 it had begun to warm up, so we headed up to the wall. we top roped the climbs which we had put up the day prior, and Kyle led the "11b" which after we had all fallen at the blank slab section called solid 12a. We climbed on a core shot rope all day long. On our way back to town, we drove back a side road to look at the Ravine Lake wall, there we discovered a car that was stuck and frantically being dug out. We threw our weight into pushing and digging, to a successful rescue.
I had a great time climbing finally and am looking forward to better temps and warmer rock!
Thursday, December 17, 2009
Rockcastle Bouldering
The directions and topo for existing problems were recently released for a new bouldering spot in Central Kentucky called Rockcastle. Yesterday Sam and I made the hour and 45 minute journey out there to check it out!
The weather was perfect and we had equal proportions of exploring, climbing, and beer to make for an awesome day.
Impressions of Rockcastle:
Rock Quality - some as good as 4/5 but lots of really chossy flake systems on the roofs. There is plenty of good rock waiting to be cleaned and climbed, and almost all of it tops out. For some reason most of the development has been concentrated on roofs, and the aformentioned loose flakes...
Potential - the best and most expansive bouldering I've seen in Kentucky. Could continue to grow and be a quality playground for Kentucky boulderers, but I cant imagine it becoming a "destination".
Problems:
Main Side
The weather was perfect and we had equal proportions of exploring, climbing, and beer to make for an awesome day.
Impressions of Rockcastle:
Rock Quality - some as good as 4/5 but lots of really chossy flake systems on the roofs. There is plenty of good rock waiting to be cleaned and climbed, and almost all of it tops out. For some reason most of the development has been concentrated on roofs, and the aformentioned loose flakes...
Potential - the best and most expansive bouldering I've seen in Kentucky. Could continue to grow and be a quality playground for Kentucky boulderers, but I cant imagine it becoming a "destination".
Problems:
Main Side
Me on "Waiting Room", V4
Quick send but super fun and committing throw to the top!
Sam battling "Red Line", V3, on Boulder 1
Quality rock with fun moves, starts WAY low under the roof.
Other Side
"Gopher It", V4 FA *****
Stone Fort/LRC Update
December 5/6 Stone Fort LRC
Andrew, Hannah, Tim, and I woke up Saturday morning to find the parking field and my tent covered in about 1-2 inches of wet Tennessee snow! We quickly entered the newly opened Urban Rocks climbing gym (which served as Triple Crown headquarters) to find that the competition had been postponed to the following day, and that competitors could boulder at Urban Rocks for half price until the Dyno Comp and party that evening.

We decided some coffee was in order so we headed into downtown Chattanooga for some Chatty's coffee and some pumpkin bread. Then back to Urban Rocks for some awesome indoor top out bouldering (that gym has it goin on!).
The afternoon was spend back in Chattytown running around like hooligans with some buildering and parkour to boot! Then to a local brewery for some fresh beer and some tasty eats!

The night was wasted away watching the dyno comp then to bed early for the comp the next day.
Similar to Horse Pens, no one in our group turned in scorecards at the end of the day. We had a blast though! Some highlights were barefoot climbing, a sweet boulder of highballs, and Andrew nearly sending (and paying the price for not) a V10 called King James.
Andrew, Hannah, Tim, and I woke up Saturday morning to find the parking field and my tent covered in about 1-2 inches of wet Tennessee snow! We quickly entered the newly opened Urban Rocks climbing gym (which served as Triple Crown headquarters) to find that the competition had been postponed to the following day, and that competitors could boulder at Urban Rocks for half price until the Dyno Comp and party that evening.
We decided some coffee was in order so we headed into downtown Chattanooga for some Chatty's coffee and some pumpkin bread. Then back to Urban Rocks for some awesome indoor top out bouldering (that gym has it goin on!).
The afternoon was spend back in Chattytown running around like hooligans with some buildering and parkour to boot! Then to a local brewery for some fresh beer and some tasty eats!
The night was wasted away watching the dyno comp then to bed early for the comp the next day.
Similar to Horse Pens, no one in our group turned in scorecards at the end of the day. We had a blast though! Some highlights were barefoot climbing, a sweet boulder of highballs, and Andrew nearly sending (and paying the price for not) a V10 called King James.
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Stone Fort (LRC), TN this weekend!
Andrew, Hannah, Tim, Tanya, Chris, and I are heading down for the final leg of the Triple Crown of Bouldering this weekend, thought I'd post a video of Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges sampling some of the excellent problems LRC has to offer.
Advanced Circuit - Little Rock City, Tn from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.
Purgatory
Tyler, Tim, Andrew, and I all are siked on routes at Purgatory. I am working "the castle has fallen", Andrew is getting close on "lucifer", and Tyler and Tim are putting in ever-so-close redpoint burns on "paradise lost"
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Its a gorgeous crag of minimally featured grey rock and hosts 4 of the best and most difficult climbs at the Red all right next to each other. Coming around the corner to see the early morning sunlight illuminating these classics is a sight to behold.
Labels:
Lucifer,
Paradise Lost,
Purgatory,
The Castle Has Fallen
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