Alaska isn't known for it's winter rock climbing, but none the less, with current temps in the high 30's to mid 40's, we decided a climbing trip was in order! We drove about an hour and 45 mins north of Anchorage to Puritan Wall. This wall is close to the road which makes a snowy approach. After a failed attempt at driving off road to a camping spot, which quickly turned into a truck rescue, as we dug out of a snow bank, we got up to the wall. we set up a one bolt belay about 20 feet off the deck, we didn't get climbing until it was dark. Kyle quickly (and intentionally) kicked a large rock of the ledge, as it was threatening anyone on the ground. By headlamp, Kyle led a 5.10a and quickly got off route, finishing on the chains for a 12a next door. he clipped three bolts on the 60 foot route. Kelsey began rope soloing aid climbing the "11b" to our left. about half way up, he discovered that Kyle's Rock had core shot his rope, meaning he had been essentially free solo aid climbing. I quickly polled his rope through and reanchored it.
After we got our fill in, and temps started to drop, we rapped to the ground, and set up camp. we huddled around a fire to keep warm and ate food, and drank some Moose's Tooth brew. Then it was bed time. Over the night, temps dropped to 0 to -5 degrees. In my -20 sleeping bag, I remained toasty.
Day two broke sunny and cold. By 10:30 or 11 it had begun to warm up, so we headed up to the wall. we top roped the climbs which we had put up the day prior, and Kyle led the "11b" which after we had all fallen at the blank slab section called solid 12a. We climbed on a core shot rope all day long. On our way back to town, we drove back a side road to look at the Ravine Lake wall, there we discovered a car that was stuck and frantically being dug out. We threw our weight into pushing and digging, to a successful rescue.
I had a great time climbing finally and am looking forward to better temps and warmer rock!
No comments:
Post a Comment